After much research, this DMT extraction technique is amazing!

topic posted Sun, July 3, 2005 - 6:08 AM by  Harimander
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How to easily make DMT:
=======================
Break 1-Pound of Mimosa Hostilis rootbark into 2" pieces and grind it all up in a glass-topped blender, a little at a time.
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Polar Extraction: Premix in an empty 1-Gallon plastic jug: 1-Quart White Vinegar & 3-Quarts Water. Put the ground up Mimosa in a 3-Liter crockpot, then fill it with the water-vinegar solution. Stir well and turn it on "high". After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off most of the liquid into a 1-gallon wide-mouthed glass or stainless container. Add the remaining water-vinegar solution to the crockpot again. Stir well and turn it on "high". After 2 hours, remove the crockpot ceramic liner, hold the lid on slightly offset, and pour off all of the liquid into the same container again. Discard the rootbark fiber and save the two combined extractions in the 1-gallon container. Allow the vegetable particles in the extraction in the 1-gallon container to settle to the bottom overnight. Then pour off the liquid into an empty 1-Gallon glass wine jug, being careful not to pour off any of the vegetable sludge at the bottom. Discard the sludge and keep the contents of the wine jug.
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Basification: Premix in advance a solution of: 5 Tablespoons (63grams) of Sodium Hydroxide ("Red Devil" lye) with 1-Pint of WARM Water. Stir well. Slowly add this solution to the wine jug, then cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug back and forth for 1 full minute to mix the contents.
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Nonpolar Extraction: Add 250ml of (Ace Hardware)VM&P Naptha to the wine jug. Add exactly enough warm water to the jug to raise the liquid level to an inch below the top, then cap the jug. Gently tilt the wine jug slowly back and forth for 5 full minutes to mix the contents. Allow the jug to sit undisturbed on a table for at least 4 hours. There should now be two layers visible in the jug, a lower dark one and a smaller clear one on top filling the neck of the jug. Use a glass turkey baster to suck up the top clear layer into a pint mason jar. Be careful not to suck up any of the lower brown/black layer into the mason jar.
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Freeze-precipitation/wash: place the sealed mason jar in a FREEZER for 3 days to precipitate the crystals. Prepare a filter setup by placing a funnel into a quart mason jar and putting a small coffee filter paper into the funnel. Shake the naptha in the mason jar strongly to stir up all the crystals at the bottom and quickly pour while still very cold into the funnel for filtering. Impure yellow-white DMT crystals will be seen on the coffee filter paper. Allow the crystals to completely dry out on the filter paper in the funnel. Premix a wash solution by mixing equal parts of Distilled Water and NON-SOAPY clear Ammonium Hydroxide(Ace Hardware Janitorial Strength Ammonia) into a pint container. Slowly pour 100ml of the wash solution over the crystals (still in the filter paper) to wash them. Remove the filter paper from the funnel, spread it out flat and allow the crystals to COMPLETELY dry out. You will now have 2-1/2 grams of white crystal DMT. At least 50 strong doses. Mix it with some parsley and smoke a little in your favorite pipe!

[Updated June 24th,2005 to better serve you!]

Here is the link to the whole thread on the forum:
www.drugs-forum.com/forum/fo...posts.asp

It is extremely informative. SWIM (someone who is not me) used this technique and said it was ridiculously simple once he had done his research. He expected it to be much more difficult, however this procedure makes it simple and very fast, and VERY PURE. Smoke it til you burst, says SWIM. It is most definetly worth the effort.
posted by:
Harimander
Los Angeles
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  • I am the moderator for the DMT and ethnobotanical sections of Drugs-Forum, and can vouch for Marsofold's tek here. Rextallizing in naphtha is the easiest way to purify the end product. This will revolutionize DMt extraction in many ways.

    Please respect the awesome power of the sacrament contained within Jurema regardless of this technical innovation. DMT is no toy, not by a long shot!

    --Eirias
    • Can you or anyone here suggest the best place to obtain Mimosa Hostilis Stem Bark in regards to quality and customer service. It seems the price varies between $10 per gm. to around $70 for 18oz.

      Any direction is appreciated.
      • the root bark has more of the magik afaik.
        • Hi, I'm marsofold. It's my TEK. Lately I've been using less ammonium hydroxide to wash crystals. Other than that, it is current as posted. Any questions about it or DMT in general?
          • On Moon Tribe (on Tribe) someone said that it was unlikely to get good crystalization from freezing the naptha, that vaporization would be better. It was also said that Xylene would be better than Naptha (as would toluene).
            It was also said that it would be best to dry the Naptha after extraction, before volitilization usually by mixing the organic solvent after separation with anhydrous magnesium sulfate and filtering.

            Why would crystals need washing with ammonia hydroxide? What are you washing off?

            Someone else said that extracted crystals turned from snow white to cream/yellowish in a short time after extraction, but DMT freebase is not suppose to be agroscopic (though the HCL salt is) Any clues as to the color change?
            • Vaporizing the naptha will work, however freezing the naptha purifies the product by retaining plant oils that would be present after evaporation. These plant oils are the yellow(I've evapped some naptha after the crystals were filtered out and gotten pure yellow oil) color seen in less pure extractions of DMT. Xylene most definitely is NOT good for producing crystals via freeze-precipitation. Only extremely concentrated xylene solutions will precipitate DMT at low temperature. And typically, the crystals xylene produces after evaporation are light brown due to other organics simultaneously extracted along with the DMT. I have not found it to be necessary to dry the naptha. The ammonium hydroxide wash removes any residual traces of both plant oils and lye(used in the basification step) with minimal loss of DMT. My DMT crystals are very small and pure white. I keep it sealed in an amber bottle and haven't noticed any color change in my stash...
          • 1) How do you safely get rid of the byproducts (like the Naptha) without polluting the water table? :-)

            2) When you state that you have lately been using less Ammonium Hydroxide to wash the crystals, do you mean a lower ratio of AH/water (< 1/1), or do you mean just less of the mixture period?

            I was also going to ask about having to dry the crystals before washing, which didn't make much sense to me. But you've answered that question. Thanks!
            • I think he reuses and recycles his solvents, at least that's one of the advantages of the freeze precipitate method.
              As for the second question, I think he uses less ammonia/water solution as you tend to lose product with more wash although it does turn out cleaner. Guess it'd depend on if it was for personal use or for sale.

              Drying the crystals? seems like they'd get wet in the wash anyways...


              ~Mark
              • I use less volume of the ammonium hydroxide wash. About 25ml of it to wash the crystals from the extraction of 1-pound of rootbark. Also I use a small plastic spray bottle to disperse the 25ml in a wide spray over the entire diameter of the coffee filter paper at once. I like the evenness of the distribution. After using my naptha three times I burn it off in an outdoor brick barbeque. I dry my crystals by letting them dry out overnight in the basement.
                • What about the dark precipitate in the step before the freeze precipitation? What is that stuff, anyway? How do you dispose of it safely?

                  I certainly have places to burn off the naptha. ;-)

                  Also, can you post the chemical equations for the technically-minded and overcurious? I'm interested in what's happening under the hood.
          • I'd like to draw your attention to the step where you pre-mix NaOH with water. I have found that reaction to be quite volatile. Without warning, the glass jar I was using for mixing became so hot it burned my fingers. I didn't expect this to happen, as I was just producing solution, not mixing with anything else. Did it have to do with my water? Should we use distilled water for this, or any other step?

            In any case, I would warn people to immerse the mixing container in a cold-water bath, so that the heat can be absorbed safely. Just fill the sink halfway with cold water, place a pint mason jar full of warm water in it, and slowly add the lye one tbsp at a time.

            Any comments on this approach?
            • It's just a very exothermic reaction. If you read the label on the lye it usually says to use cold water as hot water tends to exacerbate this exothermicity.

              ~mark
              • couple of comment from a FOAF:

                -------------------

                Toluene is way way better than naptha. The solubility of freebase DMT in toluene is way higher than naptha thus you will need much less and probably extract more. For some reason as well the DMT crystalizes much nicer in toluene than naptha.

                ACE hardware sometime sells toluene in the paint section. I doesn't look perfectly clean to me. I vaporised a bowl full and ended up with a sticky residue, thus I'd first distill it if possible.

                One thing interesting. I melted light brown powdered crystals then added naptha while warm so it went into solution. Over the next few hours the browner substances went to the bottom and on top was almost pure white. I then scraped off the pure white stuff and dissolved in toluene and vaporised to get small but beautiful clear colorless crystals.

                I haven't found Red Devil Lye anywhere except on line. I do see that ACE sells some sort of dry NaOH but have no idea how clean it is. I bought a bottle and the material is grey. Hmmm

                ------------------------
                • ACE sells Red Devil lye over in the plumbing section. It's used as a drain cleaner. It's a pint-sized white bottle with a red cap. It's white as snow, composed of little round granules.

                  BTW, anyone who doesn't know, lye is a strong base, which is like a strong acid. Take precautions with this stuff. If you splash the solution on sensitive skin, you'll feel it burn. I didn't find I needed gloves, although they wouldn't hurt. Just make sure you wash everything it comes into contact with, at your earliest convenience.
              • And yet, the recipe says to use warm water. Go figure. I thought it must be easier to mix into solution that way, so I used more on the hot side of warm, maybe 100F. I was surprised at how fast it got away from me. I had to put the jar in the sink and let the cold water run around the base, acutely aware that the glass might shatter. It also evolves some rather acrid gas.

                Here's the thing, though - I didn't think it was supposed to react with water. Isn't it just supposed to form an ionic solution? (That is, if I remember my chemistry right.) I sure can't come up with an equation that works. Thus, I assume it must be impurities in my tap water. Would distilled water be non-reactive?

                I sure as hell was reaching for the vinegar, which was the only acid I had lying around. :-s

                • It's normal that it's exothermic mixing with pure water - ie there isn't some unknown reaction happening.

                  intro.chem.okstate.edu/1314F9...71.html :

                  When solutes are added to water the solution process may be exothermic or endothermic. For example, when NaOH(s) is added to water the reaction which occurs is described by the equation; NaOH(s)--H2O--> Na+(aq) + OH-(aq)
                  This reaction is exothermic, that is, when NaOH dissolves heat is released.
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.
                    Well, there it is then. Thanks. You can tell I'm rusty at this stuff, although I thoroughly enjoyed college-level chemistry.

                    So adding 1.095g NaOH to 150g of water changes the temp by 1.82C. I added 63g NaOH to 473g H2O, which means it would have heated by 33.2C or 91.7F. I'm guessing I would have been holding a jar of water at around 190F or so, had I not cooled it down. So it wasn't headed for boiling, which is nice to know.
  • I had tried something like this before- and it didn't work. Now, I've gone through everything and the Naptha has been in the freezer for about a day. It's totally clear except for a yellow tint. I have it in a glass measuring cup with the lid of the crock pot as a cover. Now, what I'm wondering is- what is the naptha/dmt solution supposed to look like? It doesn't have any cyrstals in it that I can see.. I hope I did it right. Perhaps they only show up after day one in the freezer? Or maybe when you run the solution through the coffee filter? Let me know..
    • you have to have a high alkaloid concentration in the solvent for it to precip out.if you evap your solvent down to 250ml or less it should precip out overnight.
      • Freezer separation works brilliantly ! especially if you evaporate a bit off first.

        A point about how crystal form makes 'density' change; the dose you eyeball will be different based on crystal type.

        If one (defats the acid and) evaporates the naphtha slowly over days you'll get the long, clear 'blade' crystals, growing like rosettes, 1/8 and 1/4 inch long. These are more dense and 50 mg is about half of the 'volume' that 50 mg of freezer separated crystals 'look' like.

        Freezer separated crystals are tiny and grainy, and more "fluffy". I was surprised to see how much of a 'pile' 50 mg was.! The fluffy stuff could be 'perscribed' at sub-breakthrough amounts, perhaps, if you didn't take note of this...


        questions:

        Can NaOH contamination affect the quality of the experience ..? (aside from reducing the effective dose)

        Or does NaOH just make it a harsh smoke..? I find dmt to be so smooth, effortless to inhale and hold... well it's a vapour ... but easy to 'lung' ...
        • I used about 400 ml of Naptha.. The old more is better jive.. Thought maybe it'd get more out of the hostilis.. Anyways, there are no 1/4 or 1/8" crystals in my solution that has been in the freezer for 3 days now.. Just some very small crystals on the bottom that look like they might be frozen water from the Naptha.. It has lost it's yellow tint though. My question is: how is it supposed to look when you have it in the freezer for a few days.. just a few words description would be great.. Can you see the crystals before you filter? Sorry for the rushed nature of this post..
          • sounds like you have a failed xtraction,but for anyone to know for sure you have to give the tek you used,the amount of rb you used before anyone can answer your qtns correctly.you may want to go to mycotopia or the shroomery and ask this qtn.they may get more in depth with you about the qtn at hand.
            • Frodo recommends evaporating it to half volume,then try the freezer again.

              Samwise guesses 400 ml naphtha is lots..! enough to keep medium amounts of dmt in solution,even when cold. If not, don't fret !... the results from evapoarting it all will surprise the 'Sheep' out of you...! Use a new, see through, baking dish and a nearby fan to gently move the air. The fan quickens it to 1 or 2 days but crystals again are not so sexy when speed-evap'd... Give it 3 - 5 days, and wow !... get a scraping tool !
              • My friend used about 1oz of Mimosa root bark she did every step correctly. When it came time to basify, she did that. The dark coler fell to the bottom the Naphtha to the top at PH 11. She then collected the Top clean DMT full Naphtha. After 3 times of extracting and building naphtha, the naphtha was taken out and put into a glass tray to evaporate, when it evaporated nothing was there.

                What went wrong?

                Please Help, She is so close to the portal Key

                • luke said- "The dark coler fell to the bottom the Naphtha to the top at PH 11"


                  im not sure what this means?the naptha stays at the top the entire time.and the red aqueasous layer turns cloudy grey and then goes completely jet black when the ph is high enough.if you follow the tek above you shouldnt have any problems.the only thing i dont like about the above tek is that its a huge amount of rootbark to work with and it seems like too much mess to clean up.follow the link to drugs-forums and ask marsofold yourself what went wrong.im sure he'll help
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.
                    ..could it have been bogus bark..? ... . . Can you describe it; was it purple and made the air full of super fine dust when you 'snap' it to pieces..?, Purple bark that's stiff, curled and 2 - 5 mm thick..?

                    Compared to the 'thick' stuff there is thinner, flexible purple MHRB bark with a "blonde' outer skin. This might be younger bark, Samwise says he thinks it's lower in quality or lower yielding due to less 'purple dust'.

                    Frodo puts a layer of naphtha on top of 300 ml of the purple, filtered aqueous acid first and then adds pH 11.0 solution. This goes blue-ish after the first 30 ml squirt of pH 11, but 'swirl' the jar to mix and watch it react. Just 'swirl' without mixing naphtha with aqueous yet.

                    Then after another 15 ml pH 11.0 it turns to a chunky grey 'flocculant', (swirl..!) and if another 5-10 mls is all it takes, watch it go .. "jet black", blackest black... smooth, Ink of God Black ! .. and not foggy or full of 'flocculant'... From translucent, blood-purple deep wine red when acid, to an impenetrable, oily, Blackest black.

                    If one needs less or more pH 11 than Frodo it will depend on how acid the original extract was etc... it will be 'failsafe' to just watch for Oily Black, but go slow, and swirl since that often makes the reaction go fully mixed and colour changes as you swirl.

                    Once the layer under the naphtha is all black, don't add any or much of the pH 11, the job is done when it's Black. Dmt has fled the aqueous layer, loving the naphtha more now...

                    Now mix without making emulsions ... ! practice that says Frodo !~... 'tumble' the jars end over end... 2 minutes of tumbling, settle the bubbles, ' swirl' ... settle, remove naphtha and repeat.

                    Once you evaporate the naphtha there is a smell that is also a sign of yeild; even trace amounts reek !... ReekyDiMiTri... ! do you smell anything..? The yellow oils will also smell stronger than white crystals. Oh so potent..! Are there any yellow oils from the bark used..? That might indicate something about bark quality, to see and smell the oils..?
                    • This post was deleted by dimi3
  • Btw, when I tried this tek, I scraped up a good amount of coffee filter as well.
    • And just wondering about what appears to be a foamy layer between the naptha and the a/b solution. Is this something to suck up with the naptha into the freezer or should it remain in the waste jar? I don't know if the special ingredient is completely dissolved in the naptha or if it's chillin underneath it in a neat little foamy layer.
      • The foamy layer MUST settle and get completely flat - mirror-like - before you pull off the Naphtha. You do not want any of the brown-black liquid when you pull the Naphtha, even a trace amount will pollute your final product. If the foam hasn't settled within a few hours, you can add more NaOH solution, that should help a lot.
        • That's called an emulsion. Basifying the solution, furthur, sometimes helps...warming up the solution, also, helps, sometimes, as well, at least that's what my cat's dog's uncle's monkey tells me. :)

          Jag
          • om
            om
            offline 66

            This tek sucks

            Sun, December 24, 2006 - 9:42 PM
            no offense but this extraction tek sucks
            the tek on the DMT Nexus / Blackclover forums
            is way simpler and way faster
            less cost, less ingredients, less hassle
            BTW common sense should tell you
            that you should NOT ingest ANYTHING
            that's been soaked in Red Devil's Lye
            Go drink Ayahuasca instead.
            peace
            Om
            • Unsu...
               

              Re: This tek sucks

              Sun, December 24, 2006 - 11:02 PM
              yes, i gotta agree with om on this one.

              this seems to happen a lot.

              why would it take poison to make magic?

              hmmmm......

              lemme think about that one.

              i do know aya is a beautiful vine. <correction--liana>

              seems like a safe bet.

              dontcha think?

              wade
              • om
                om
                offline 66

                Re: This tek sucks

                Sun, December 24, 2006 - 11:07 PM
                hey wade,
                sup man!
                whats the diff.
                between a vine and a liana?
                what is a liana?
                i once knew a really hot girl
                named "liana"
                she was part phillipina... 8-)
                om
              • Re: This tek sucks

                Sat, November 8, 2008 - 1:54 PM
                It most certainly does NOT suck!

                The Marsofold tek is a work of art!

                Lye isnt a concern if you wash/re x/ your final product. Even then I`m not sure its a concern at all. I would bet most of the SH is neuteralized by the acid and even that which isnt shouldnt hurt ya. I`d say most folks would go through this tek and not make yage because they plan on smoking the spice...as I understand it (I`m qouting this from another forum) "Sodium Hydroxide doesnt vaporize this side of a blast furnace." Therefor a bit of Lye contamination shouldnt be a problem. I still STRONGLY reccomend washing and re-xing.

                And while agree aya is a truly amazing experience, it cant even begin to compare to smoked DMT. The two are night and day. (some might disagree here)

                Dont let the fear of SH stop you from trying this atleast once...A/B and STB extractions have been used for a LONG time on all kinds of produtcs that you consume, it wasnt just created for DMT.

                Hope someone finds this useful. Dont listen to em Mars keep doing your thing!

                Just my .02

                Blessed Be,

                T.
                • Re: This tek sucks

                  Mon, July 27, 2009 - 4:23 PM
                  Hey T'

                  To stick it bluntly' stop talking out of your ass'

                  Sodium hydroxide shall cut through your lungs the likes of hot cheese wire'

                  Even if you re-crystalise you are still going to get Sodium hydroxide in your final product' unless you neutralise it'

                  As to aya and spice being nite and day' depends on of what planet you come from'

                  No smoke Sodium Hydroxide' even on a STB tech' nutralise the Sodium Hydroxide'
                  Ph of spice is 11.2 ph' and even that is quite hot to toke on'

                  Be safe'

                  Be well'

                  Be educated'

                  Nganga Nobuoni +

                  Marsfold tech sucks ! ! ! it is ugly work'


                  To nutralise your spice'

                  Wash your napth containing spice in a very small volume of ice cold pure water and soda ash' or pour a small volume of ice cold ammonia solution over your spice' then dry it'
                  Ammonia evaporates' Sodium hydroxide no does ! !

                  Be safe' no smoke Lye'

                  You shall notice if you clean your mole properly you shall lose about 1/3rd of it' cos this is Sodium Hydroxide'
  • this is a bit late but swim followed this tek exactly and ended up with a little less than .5 grams of white crystal after washing with about 25ml of wash solution. does anyone have an idea as to where he might have lost product? everything seemed to go exactly as described, except the final yield.
    • OK cut all the craziness'

      Acids n' bases'

      Grind the wood'

      Base with Lye/water to ph13 add napth'

      Draw off the Napth' evap half of it' stick it in the freezer'

      In the morning' the crystals shall be in the bottom' all dirty yellow orange'

      Gently poor off the napth'
      Add a little warm water and vinagar to drop the ph to 3-4'
      Add clean napth' swill it about to melt the oils n' waxes'
      Draw off this napth' throw it away'
      Add clean napth and sodium hydroxide until the ph rises to 11.5 ph'

      The spice jumps into the napth solvent'
      Draw off the solvent' evap on a plate'

      Pure spice'

      Bliss

      Nobunoni +

      All these techs just waste time effort and substances'
      • This post was deleted by dimi3

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